Post your rig

Does pcandparts even have a warehouse to have a stock ? I think it's just an office and they get all their items from distributors.

This is my first Low-entry Gaming / Editing / Rendering Rig , I only used pre-built ones for work (I know the MB is a little bit Overkill , but I'm planning on upgrading components later ) :

- Cooler Master RC-350 with 500 W PSU ( Still waiting for a better PSU to overclock )
- 3.2 GHZ I5 4460 LGA1150
- MSI H97 GAMING 3
-Kingston HyperX Fury 8 Gb RAM
-Seagate 1TB 7200 RPM ( going to upgrade soon & SSD )
- Normal LG DVD writer ( Blu-ray soon for movies )
- ASUS GTX 750TI 2GB


Bought it from PCANDPARTS for 892 $ TTC , Performs well so far .

Has anyone got suggestions for a future GPU upgrade ? ( 400 $ Budget )

OdeToDeath wroteHas anyone got suggestions for a future GPU upgrade ? ( 400 $ Budget )

Best bet would be the gtx970 or it's equivalent in AMD .. if you can wait a few months new VGAs may come on the way

super wroteLG 24MP56HQ Wide 23.8" LED IPS Full HD / Wide Viewing Angle, is no longer available at pcandparts, what a joke! Do they keep 1 or 2 items in stock?

Microcity has them for 184$ on their site. also "free delivery" :)

Here's my rig:

- Intel Core i7-2700K 3.5GHz CPU (stock)*
- Thermaltake FrioOCK cooler + Arctic-Silver Ceramique 2 TIM
- Asrock Fatal1ty Professional Z68 Motherboard
- G.Skill Ripjaws-X 4GB DDR3 1600MHz CL6 RAM (will upgrade to 16GB soon)
- Asus Strix Geforce GTX 980 4GB **
- Technisat SkyStar-2 PCI DVB
- Gigabyte Odin Pro 800w PSU
- a bunch of internal storage drives: 2x320GB RAID0 + 2x500GB + 1x320GB + 1x250GB (will add an SSD soon)***
- LG DVDRW
- Thermaltake Xaser VI-MX Mid-Tower Case ****
- Sony Bravia 32" LCD 720P **

*: there's no reason at all to overclock since all games are running +60fps on ultra settings.
**: yup, a GTX 980 is an overkill for 720P
***: is it worth it to get 2 SSD's in RAID0 or is it an overkill ?
****: Xaser VI-MX case supports 27cm video cards, if you're wondering how did the 29cm Strix fit in there, I've moved all the HDD's from the 3.5" HDD cage (which is removable) to the 5.25" bays, now I can use a 35cm card without the cage.

@MohammedSF your build is nice, no overpriced nonsense lol.
just my thoughts on what you mentioned overclocking isn't even necessary no one ever overclocks because its necessary, if you have a GAMING pc your bottleneck is 99% of the time in the GPU and overclocking ends up being a waste of power and money its an expensive hobby like previously mentioned in phones etc..overclocking never increases your gaming performance unless your system is poorly built.

another thing i wanna say is about CPU cooling that i hope doesn't end in a flamewar but its the way an electronics guy sees it.. CPU coolers are a huge gimmick unless you are aiming for a world record in clock speed lol. The CPU doesn't need to be hardcore cooled.. its an IC that is designed to operate normally below 100 degrees celsius, it doesn't matter if it runs at 30 degrees or 90 it DOES work and it won't be harmed in anyway,if Intel knows that their CPU's can be damaged by their terrible coolers they WILL NOT SHIP THEM WITH IT! they know that the CPUs doesn't need hardcore cooling, third-party coolers and liquid cooling are a huge gimmick,but for the looks they are a must have :)

in my opinion RAID0 SSDs is a must if you can afford it and need the performance, in read speeds its an overkill but in write speed it never is an SSD will perform as marketed when it is EMPTY when you start filling it write speeds drop dramatically its another marketing trick for gamers and enthusiasts... Raid0 helps a lot do it!

believe me guys companies do whatever they can to trick enthusiasts, SONY even released an SDcard aimed at music nerds this SDcard costs a fortune and its marketed as it is intended for music files and reduces noise dramatically bla bla bla *huge facepalm* but people will get fooled and pay for it anyways and IT DOESN'T BENEFIT AT ALL not even 0.1% and that's SONY folks....

btw gaming on 720p is great i am still using my rusty hd6950 and its doing great! i love my 720p monitor it's like magic =P

and here is my great aging build :)

-3550 (have a boxed 3570k dunno why)
-Stock Cooler running since 3 years at 85 degrees+ hitting beyond 90 at some points =D
-dp67bg (with an incompatible CPU that Intel said it wont work but after being stubborn with bios flashing it did for some reason lol)

-2x4GB kingston 1333 (It is 666MHz i hate marketing tricks)

-CM 720watts EPP
-Msi TF2 Hd6950 "OC <-- they made me pay 30 more $ for 30Mhz smart MSI lol"
-HyperX 3k SSD 120Gb (mehh it does the job, 120GB arent that bad afterall )
-Hitachi 1tb HDD (still surprised how good it is in sequential Write it manages around 160MB/sec which is awesome!)
-VIEWSONIC 720P MONITOR <----here is the power house guys its what's running my games at ultra hahaha

My Rig:

- Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell Quad-Core 3.4GHz
- Cooler Master Hyper EVO 212 CPU Cooler
-MSI Z87-G45 Gaming LGA 1150
-Corsair Vengeance (2x4GB) DDR3 1600mhz (Blue)
- Sapphire TOXIC R9 270X 2GB GDDR5 with boost
- Thermaltake Smart SE 630W PSU SPS-630M
-Seagate Desktop ST1000DM003 1TB HDD (Getting a Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD in June!)
Thermaltake Versa G2 mid tower case
- A cheap monitor on 1440x900 resolution that does the job
-Crappy Lebanese internet I have to deal with <3

This PC was built on the 5th of September 2014 and costed me exactly $999 (Quite impressive number)

@Yankey Your Gaming Rig is Good ; but with an I5 and R9 270x 2GB will be a bottleneck for coming games / even recent titles to play with a nice graphic fidelity (Far Cry 4, Assassin's Creed Unity , Shadow of Mordor, Call of Duty - Modern Warfare, Crises 3 ....) on 1080p with AA enabled and games will be more VRAM intensive (GTA 5, Witcher 3, Batman: Arkham Knight ....) ... Soon upgrade is recommended , but for a 1000 USD it is good

@MohammedSF

- SSD is a must Get Two in Raid 0 and Two 1TB WD HDD Black Editions 64MB instead of many HDDs
-720p is too low a PS3 Games Resolution - Get a 1080p Monitor or TV
-i7 - 2700 2nd Generation is becoming Outdated ; you will soon upgrade with a board
- RAM Upgrade is recommend as you have mentioned (16 GB is good to go)
- Do not what windows you are using if Windows 8.1 64 bit you will get a free upgrade to Windows 10 Genuine from MS which will be future proof for coming Direct x 12 Titles which windows 7 will not support.

Sup3r wroteI got this monitor LG 24MP56HQ-T 61cm (24") Full-HD IPS 1920x1080 5ms
for 200$, according to the resolution, I guess it's 1080p? As their's no info on the boxing.

Yes its 1080p since its written Full HD and 1920 x 1080 >> 1080p

1920x1080 is full HD, so yours is full HD

Sup3r wrote

ironman wrote1920x1080 is full HD, so yours is full HD

Thanks, I got the case cm storm trooper and I'm glad that I can order a left side windowed panel online later. It's hard to find although available. I'm thinking about raid0 and getting another 850 pro ssd 512gb for drive d:/ instead of a 7200rpm.

And I was wondering if their's a way to test the Ax860i power supply before launching it on that nearly 3000$ rig? To make sure their's no DOA or issues with it, I'll research this further..

You can test the PSU By shorting the 15 and 16 pins on the 24-pin connector with a wire or a paper clip then turning it on (it isn't enough to be sure that the PSU is working 100% since you will be needing to measure each pin with a multimeter and comparing the values with the normal range) but its a good way to check if the PSU is intact.

Bahij.M wrote

Sup3r wrote

ironman wrote1920x1080 is full HD, so yours is full HD

Thanks, I got the case cm storm trooper and I'm glad that I can order a left side windowed panel online later. It's hard to find although available. I'm thinking about raid0 and getting another 850 pro ssd 512gb for drive d:/ instead of a 7200rpm.

And I was wondering if their's a way to test the Ax860i power supply before launching it on that nearly 3000$ rig? To make sure their's no DOA or issues with it, I'll research this further..

You can test the PSU By shorting the 15 and 16 pins on the 24-pin connector with a wire or a paper clip then turning it on (it isn't enough to be sure that the PSU is working 100% since you will be needing to measure each pin with a multimeter and comparing the values with the normal range) but its a good way to check if the PSU is intact.

I saw a video about this, I'll attempt to do that.

i would just turn the whole thing on even if the system was for 10k$, but if you are paranoid about it being DOA and damaging something which 99% doesnt happen just connect pin 16 (green) to any black wire(GND) no need to measure anything since if it did start the voltages are most probably inspec since a quality psu must have overvoltage protection