ground is not requiredhaidcar wroteNeutral is the negative (-). Every circuit out there has is. from your picture and your post, you probably do not have Ground lead.
you might not have ground wire. you can connect the ground wire to the metal shell of the socket that will take care of the ground.
dear it work with 220v , i have wemo switch plug and it work , and the light switch it was tested on 220v and it work great ( reviews)mesa177 wroteI'm sorry, but isn't the Belkin WeMo smart switch only compatible with 110V 60Hz power lines? Even if it was installed correctly, does it function correctly on 220V 50Hz power lines?
Also, if I were you, I would stick to the wiring diagram or wiring instructions which usually come with the product. A picture of the switch itself would be great (you put a link to a standard US configuration switch, is that what you have or is the product you bought of a different country configuration?). You can tell from the product model number.
Furthermore, I think the link on the official website would help you out in figuring the proper connections:
Quick edit, never ever connect the neutral line to the grounding line.
it work great!!! but the main problem after power outage it return to off always. and i hope i can find the same box sizemesa177 wroteok, well in that case, if you're changing a switch in your house to the Belkin WeMo, the 2 black lines labeled "switch" are connected to the 2 main lines (hot line, comes typically in the color brown) that were originally connected to the switch (join them with coas connectors), the white neutral line is joined with the neutral line from either a nearby outlet socket (usually comes in another color, typically blue), the lamp socket itself (make sure it's not the wire with same color as the ones connected to the 2 black lines of the switch), or a line which you extend from the breaker corresponding to the room/area, and if you have a ground line (most houses don't have a ground terminal) then join it to the green ground line on the switch. Else, you need to connect it to a wire that runs back to a large metallic surface outside of your house. I would say cut it, but sometimes grounding helps with inter signal interference.
In case you were installing the switch on a new lamp socket (i.e. no prior switch connected on it), then the main line in brown going to the lamp socket terminal T1 has to be removed and connected to one of the 2 black lines labeled "switch" (doesn't matter which) while the other black line gets connected back to T1, and the white neutral line gets connected alongside the blue neutral line going to the other lamp socket terminal T2. Grounding line follows same scenario as above.
