Hello there. Does anyone know where I can get the following:

1) Red Line Watter Wetter or similar - this is a surfactant that increases the surface tension of water and is also a corrosion inhibitor. I'm mostly interested in the corrosion inhibitor part.
2) Silver strip - called silver killcoil. This acts as a biocide.

I'm planning to use these in a copper - nickel water loop.

I already have an antifreeze solution but don't want to use it. It's overkill for a PC watercooling loop and supposedly decreases cooling potential due to the antifreeze.
You can rub some Petroleum Jelly and it will prevent corrosion ;)
AvoK95 wroteYou can rub some Petroleum Jelly and it will prevent corrosion ;)
Yeah...no. Not on the waterblock fins. Else I will have a very shiny lovely looking waterblock which cannot cool a chip. I'm leaving that option as a last resort ;)
For surfactant, a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid (fairy, etc..) per liter is more than enough

As to the corrosion inhibitor role, antifreeze is your friend. It doesn't sensibly lower the thermal transfer properties of water unless you use LOTS of it, just follow the instructions and divide the amount by two or even three and you should be safe.

I am guessing the corrosion type you're talking about is galvanic corrosion, brought about by the contact of dissimilar metals. The potential for galvanic corrosion on a Nickel/Copper combination is among the lowest as these two metal differ very slightly in electrochemical potential.

Another advice, just use distilled water (collect it from your A/C drain and boil it), and as long as the water does not get exposed to sunlight, you shouldn't have any fungal or algea growth.

Just don't fall for advertisements or you'll be getting on a slippery slope, dumping tons of cash trying to solve problems that don't exist, unless you are building an insanely overclocked rig to act as a server farm in a constrained space and the need to dissipate the heat equivalent of a nuclear plant.
Hajj wroteFor surfactant, a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid (fairy, etc..) per liter is more than enough
Yup I realize that. I was looking more into the corrosion inhibitor role.
As to the corrosion inhibitor role, antifreeze is your friend. It doesn't sensibly lower the thermal transfer properties of water unless you use LOTS of it, just follow the instructions and divide the amount by two or even three and you should be safe.
I do have a 50/50 antifreeze solution ready in bottles. I'm just wary about using the antifreeze solution since, obviously, a PC waterloop is subject to much less harsh environmental conditions than a car is. I was worried about antifreeze lowering the thermal properties of water, but since you say it shouldn't affect much, I guess I will try a 25 antifreeze / 75 water mix by using equal amounts of water and antifreeze solution.
I am guessing the corrosion type you're talking about is galvanic corrosion, brought about by the contact of dissimilar metals. The potential for galvanic corrosion on a Nickel/Copper combination is among the lowest as these two metal differ very slightly in electrochemical potential.
Nope, no galvanic corrosion here. Only nickel / copper, which as you said, the electrochemical potential difference between the two is very low, less than 0.05 I believe. Not a cause for concern.

However, I'm simply worried about the natural copper oxidation that occurs over time in the presence of water and oxygen. I've had some oxidation happen on my CPU waterblock which is copper base (not nickel plated), and I used Brasso to clean it (since the chemicals in Brasso do not adhere to the copper and form a complex like Benzotriazole does).
Another advice, just use distilled water (collect it from your A/C drain and boil it), and as long as the water does not get exposed to sunlight, you shouldn't have any fungal or algea growth.
Yup, I have distilled water that I obtained from someone who collected it from AC drain I believe. It does have an "organic" smell, though, so I suspect it does have growth inside it. This is why I want to use biocide. Or is boiling the water before usage enough to solve that?
Just don't fall for advertisements or you'll be getting on a slippery slope, dumping tons of cash trying to solve problems that don't exist, unless you are building an insanely overclocked rig to act as a server farm in a constrained space and the need to dissipate the heat equivalent of a nuclear plant.
I am definitely not going to do that, I'm looking for the most efficient way of doing this while minimizing any negative effects on my copper parts. There are not much ready-made solutions here in Lebanon for PC watercooling, though, this is why I'm trying to search for car solutions and mixing them in appropriate amounts.

Thanks a lot for your response! I'll try antifreeze and compare temperatures to using water, I guess.
Just boil the water for 15 minutes and let it cool down, that'll take care of any live organisms.

When you fill your system, make sure there is no air pocket this should minimize oxygen in the water and therefore any oxidation.
What i once used was a heater equipped ultrasonic cleaning container. Get water to boiling temp and cavitate for 15 minutes. Works great for the application i needed it for (not CPU cooling though)

Regards
Thanks for the tip! I will do that and report back on what happens.
Do you know where I can find rubber / plasticizer-free tubing in 3/8 in. ID and 1/2 in. OD?
I have no idea. Sorry.
But I'm interested to know why you might need such tubing.
I had regular tubing and the plasticizer leaked horribly. It turned brown.

Even better tubing often suffers from clouding and plasticizer leakage. Short of copper tubing, which is hard to mess with, rubber and plasticizer free tubing are my options.

My compression fittings are 3/8 ID 1/2 OD.
For rubber you could try hydraulic tubing, problem is it's tough to work with and the fittings are tough to get.
Copper on the other hand is not as hard to work with as you might think. you could easily get the right elbow connectors and tube sizes.
All you need is a bit of practice for the soldering. Using a good torch and good quality flux makes it a breeze and a very rewarding DIY project ;)
I do have copper tubing already but the radiator is mounted externally. Any wrong movement and pop.

Otherwise, it would look fantastic.

Hydraulic tubing does the job but I fear I'm not going to find some that has a 1/16" wall thickness.