Did you see? Your infection is a lethal disease and unstoppable: P. this poor person wrote all this because of you: D & I have to agree with him for many reasons, remember *I am not taking a side in favor towards any Company in here we are talking about Real Facts*.

First, I cannot be fair with AMD this time; NOT AT ALL, they lost the Cpu Battle in favor to Intel and drove Intel to Control the Market their last hope is “Trinity”. AMD had the Lead at least 4 Months over Nvidia did they took the advantage of this early lead? No, they did not. From the release, date until this moment the Flagship 7970, Tahiti based Gpu is suffering from Driver’s instability *Specially in XFIRE* that if they Released a Certified one whereas Nvidia Launched Kepler on par with the 1st Certified Driver the 301.10, which helped Nvidia a LOT to take the Crown Back of the World Fastest Single Gpu. Note: I have been in contact with “Terry Makedon” AMD Manager of the Software Products; he is responsible of the Roadmap and Delivery of Catalyst Drivers thus, he admitted things were not working for their favor recently although he said they got lots of hard work.

Second, As Beej said, if somehow both of us ended up with two 7970’s yours a None-Reference mine is you might hit the 1200MHz, whereas for some reason’s I could hit the 1300MHz hassle free which is relatively inconvenient for a Reference Model at least. The Die Shrink is causing this problem and hopefully with some Re-Branded Models that will be changed.
Now the Green Team, with all the Bells and Whistles surrounding their “Kepler Based Gpu’s” the Pros: taking into consideration the Huge Leap Forward from a Dodgy old Noisy Power Hungry Gpu that needs a Generator to feed, to a Sleek, Stylish low Noise “DIET POWERED Gpu". The Cons: I just cannot find any word to describe that Silly Useless “Gpu Boost”, like Beej said it’s a Poison a really bad one which is killing the Gpu Performance but then again we know it’s another Marketing Trick, this is real business and the story will never ends.

God Man it's 3am and I'm posting!!!.
I must also voice the SSD reccomendation. It is the most tangible improvement you will notice,

As for PSU, I am using the Thermaltake Toughpower 775 XT (this is a revised version of the older tough power 750) and has excellent reviews. I am quite satisfied with it.

I also believe an 8 GB low latecy RAM kit would suffice.
@Rubz, With all my respect to your opinion mate, I kinda find it hard for me to swallow or recommend any of the Thermaltake PSU’s for two reasons. First, the Production of those PSUs stopped back in 2006! Thus due to the Huge Stock we still finds them in “Our Market” which is a sad thing from the Importers. Second, Thermaltake is not a “Sea Sonic” based PSU unlike “Corsair, Antec & XFX” 80+ Certified. Technically their PSU’s notoriously known with their sluggish 12v Rails.
shant wrote*cough hard drive cough speed cough slow cough cough*
Why do you think that the hard disk is slow ?! :3


And what does the hard disk "speed" even matter for ?
He means get an ssd, as its what truley is an upgrade. You see getting the higest cpu + board + gpu..etc will get your fps high. But boot/stream/copy/paste..etc ,which btw we spend more time on windows than gaming, can only be boosted by an ssd.
Beej wrote@Shant: Sahha bro sahha. Before grammar people come her, health Shant Health (yea google translates to this)
here* haha, thanks man
AVOlio wrote
shant wrote*cough hard drive cough speed cough slow cough cough*
Why do you think that the hard disk is slow ?! :3


And what does the hard disk "speed" even matter for ?
because hard drives are normally slow, hard drives lack speed the new generation hardware needs, think of it this way, your cpu can process a 1000 files in a second, but your hard drive can only hand over 100 files a second, it limits your processor as well as windows speed, you'd expect every program to launch instantly as you click them with an i7, but won't happen with just 1 hard drive, how about you go with 2x 500GB in raid 0 ?
ask tarek or yasamoka for more detailed explanations :P
Ok thanks for the suggestion Guys,
You already know the specifications of my future Rig,
Can you suggest me a perfect Hard Drive to match with it ?!

Also, tell me what do you think about the Mobo, Asus P9H77-V LE , is it good or i should get better?

Another also, i am still believing that the 750W PSU is not enough!
As alot of other guys,have lower GPU's lover CPU's and lower Mobo's, but they have like 1200W PSU's !

I have a couple of other questions, so hang on tight, its not quite finished yet :p
-Will the 1200W UPS, handle my Case and the 32'' Samsung LCD TV ??

-I read a couple of posts from you guys in this topic,
And i kind of started worrying about this thing.
Am i going to be able to play 1920*1080p resolution games on my LCD 32'' TV, withouut ANY problem ??!
Your hard drive is good. Any hard drive will perform the same as the one you have. The only option is to get an SSD. But you don't need an SSD, since this rig will not need it. If you get an SSD the only difference you'll notice is shorter loading screens. If you want a slightly faster HDD then get the Western Digital Caviar Black that I suggested with costs around 200$ (Which is way off your budget.)

The motherboard is good. I picked the H77 chip set because you won't be using the Z77 chip sets overclocking features. Plus the H77 has the key features you'll need like USB 3.0, PCI E 3.0 ect. If you want you can use the ASUS P8Z77-V LX. which is around the same price range.

Concerning the PSU. 750W is enough. People tend to overkill with PSU's for future upgrades. Plus older components use more power. For example the i 2500k uses up to 95W of power whereas the i5 3570k uses up to only 77W, or the GTX 570 uses around 150W of power whereas the GTX 670 uses only around 90 to 100W.

Note that you won't be overclocking the system. When overclocking a 95W CPU it can use up to 200W of power. Even for a graphics card, if it's 150W it can use up to 300 to 350 W (Especially if it's a high end card like yours).

Note that your system won't even use the fully 750W of power, it would only use up to 500W. You won't be even using the full 100% performance of the hardware because there is no game or program yet in existence that uses the full performance so you might be using even 300W instead of 500.

1200VA = 780W. If your TV uses up to 250W , that could leave you with 530W. But I still use a 1500VA (1050W) Just to be safe. You'r whole PC + TV should run about 5 to 10 minutes without power.

A GTX 560 (A very very slow card compared to the GTX 670) can play any game at 1080p. The size of the screen doesn't matter. You can use a 102" Screen that's 1920x1080 and still get the same performance as a 19" 1920x1080 screen. So you don't need to worry about facing any problems in gaming. The only time you need to worry about a higher end card is when you're gonna game in 2 or 3 screens at the same time (Nvidia Surround).
12 days later
Guys,
Will a 2000 VA UPS, Support this new rig+the 32' TV+ The PS3 ??!

If yes, for how long ?! (all of them together lets say)
I have a 1200VA apc ups that's holding a 32' tv, a 24' screen, a pc , xbox and ps3
note that the pc is always on and when I am using the ps3 or the xbox, the ups stays on for about 7-8 minutes
6 days later
Guys im gonna get from PCandParts PC Star UPS 2000 VA.

What do you think of this brand ?! Tell me your experiences
@AVOlio: Mate, stick with one of those brands “PCE or APC” those are the best in the business.

Note: based on your rig specs the 2000VA is more then you really need.
Thanks tarek.
I know that its more than enough..
But i thought of hooking all my Tv+Rig+PS3 on the UPS.
And if its still more than enough. then it would be just to last longer.

There is PCE 2000 VA on pcandparts, XP series .
What does that mean ?!
It wont work with Vista or 7 they mean, or something.. ?!
AVOlio wroteThere is PCE 2000 VA on pcandparts, XP series .
What does that mean ?!
It wont work with Vista or 7 they mean, or something.. ?!
hehehe...if the UPS has a USB port, then it MAY (MAY!) need drivers in order for Windows to support monitoring UPS battery level. However, I do think that this stuff is usually generic, and that any UPS would work directly with any version of Windows without the need for specialized drivers (since all UPSes would offer this function in probably the same way).

If the UPS does not have a USB port, then there is absolutely no way the UPS could know what component is drawing power from it. In that case, it is independent of OS.

I may be making you think more about something that should really be much simpler, but I tend to take into account stuff that might usually be missed.
@AVOlio: Mate, those are just names; nothing else.
Something to note, you need to ensure that your alternative power system (Generator, APS, etc...) is capable of recharging your UPS. I've had problems with the 1200VA on a 6.5A generator sub. The problem was mostly when the generator turns on and the electricity switches.
What kind of Problems you mean man ?!
We have 10A Generator subscription (although i doubt the guy is giving us 10A, cause all the time its ticking when the electricity goes off, even if we turn everything off in the house) anyway,

What kind of problems you mean?
When the electricity goes off, the UPS will keep the attachments On, and then when the generator is on, the attachments will be On through generator power, not UPS power !
Anyway, tell me more about the problems you had Xterm.

Another thing guys, i had never figured this one out.
When we have a UPS (Any PC UPS.. ) Should we keep it all the time plugged in charging.. or..?!
yasamoka wrote
AVOlio wroteThere is PCE 2000 VA on pcandparts, XP series .
What does that mean ?!
It wont work with Vista or 7 they mean, or something.. ?!
hehehe...if the UPS has a USB port, then it MAY (MAY!) need drivers in order for Windows to support monitoring UPS battery level. However, I do think that this stuff is usually generic, and that any UPS would work directly with any version of Windows without the need for specialized drivers (since all UPSes would offer this function in probably the same way).

If the UPS does not have a USB port, then there is absolutely no way the UPS could know what component is drawing power from it. In that case, it is independent of OS.

I may be making you think more about something that should really be much simpler, but I tend to take into account stuff that might usually be missed.
i haven't confirmed this, but most ups's now kind of have a telephone port ? i never knew what that was, i think at one time i saw a usb to telephone plug cable for an ups, maybe thats how it works ? (weird i know)
I believe the "telephone ports" are so that you may pass your phone/network lines through the ups for surge protection